Survival Gear Ww1 Pilots Where Can I Buy Online

Hey everyone, in this video I’m going to be
showing you a closer look at my “all alcohol
fuel stove” and talking about why it was designed
the way it was designed. The burner cup is
two stainless steel “condiment cups” they
sell these for putting ketchup and things
in. The top portion of a larger one is affixed
with these screws to the bottom one. I found
it was necessary to do that to raise the impingement
plate higher up off the orifice or it would
not work properly. The impingement plate is
a circular piece of stainless steel with a
slight dish shape bent into it. These three
arms are stainless steel wire. There are three
stove legs / pot stand arms. They have been
incorporated into their own separate units
here. They attach to the stove with this triangular
piece here, there is three corners on this
triangle. Each corner of the triangle has
a slight downward bend, and combined with
the angles and bends of this sort of, intermediate
piece that allows these pot stand arms and
stove legs to fold up, and into the side.
Perhaps it is easier to see this way, how
as the entire arm is rotated, it rotates in
towards the stove, and also up. The legs fold
in along the side and the pot stand arms swing
around behind the whole thing. The fuel line
is a silicone fuel hose, it’s for gas powered
radio controlled models. This outer stainless
steel braiding is actually a sort of performance
accessory for the very same application. I
have terminated the ends of the fuel line
with a short piece of stainless steel tubing,
to act as a thermal barrier between the brass
vapor generator loop and the silicone rubber
hose. Silicone withstands heat better than
most other materials that can be used as fuel
line, but still I was worried about a heat
failure here because this is under pressure,
with a flammable liquid inside. I have joined
the fuel line to the vapor generator loop,
they are both 1/8 inch diameter, with a 1/8
to 1/8 inch compression coupler. Where the
vapor generator here enters the orifice elbow,
I have one of these same fittings however
I tapped the elbow to 5/16 – 24 which happens
to be the same thread, or almost the same
thread as this here. So then one of these
fittings is threaded into the elbow. Then
the vapor generator joined to it with the
compression fitting here. Early on what I
had done is I had taken one of those fittings
and cut it in half, giving me two pieces that
were like this. You have the compression nut
here, and the other end of the compression
fitting. I had this flat surface here just
soldered on to the elbow, which sort of gave
me this similar arrangement, however the heat
from operating the stove was actually enough
to melt the solder joining this. Luckily that
did not happen while the stove was running,
it happened after I shut it off and the heat
sort of “soaked” around, and loosened up that
connection. So one of the design challenges
was the fuel delivery and vaporization system
could not have any soldered connections. This is
problematic because of the heat, because what
else can you use? You can’t use epoxy or anything
like that. So all connections in this hot
area have to be threaded, or a compression
fitting, some sort of mechanical way to join
them together. Here you can see the impingement
plate, originally the arms that held the impingement
plate in the center of the burner bell were
and integral part of the center piece. They
were just wide, flat stainless steel arms
that came out. I found out that blocked a
lot of the flame. Which I felt was kind of
inefficient. So I opted for this stainless
steel wire method. That sort of gold colored
piece underneath is a brass nut. Which I have
filed three groves into, which locate those
stainless steel wires. Then the smaller stainless
steel nut on top is tightened down and it
holds them all in.
Here you can see the very slight dish shape
to the impingement plate. That’s very necessary
for a proper burn, I noticed a flat impingement
plate barely worked, and the dish shape, if
used up side down, would not work at all.
So this very gentle dish shape is important
for the proper function of a burner like this.
Inside you can see where the vapor generator
both enters and exits one of the combustion
air holes in the bottom of the burner cup.
This vapor generator is built out of a three
foot long section of 1/8 inch diameter brass
tube. I found out it is important before attempting
to make these kinds of bends in the brass
tube is to anneal the brass tube first. The
vapor generator begins by entering the cup
and coming up and around and around about
five times before exiting out the bottom.
In the bottom surrounding the orifice is a
doughnut of carbon felt. This is to absorb
fuel for priming. And it kind of keeps the
priming process under control. Before adding
this carbon fiber wick, it was just an empty
space in there, kind of like a priming pan.
And that was problematic when I would prime
the stove, the priming fuel would begin to
boil, and it would shoot little flaming droplets
of fuel out of the combustion air holes here.
So the carbon felt kind of prevents that from
happening by holding on to the priming fuel
while it’s burning. The orifice diameter in
this stove is .024 inch, it’s significantly
larger than a liquid petroleum orifice. You
can see there is quite a bit of that “smut”
from burning isopropanol in there during priming.
When the vapor velocity out of the orifice
is sufficient to support the proper burning
it burns very clean. In three spots around
the top of the vapor generator I have the
vapor generator sort of staked down with a
washer and a stainless steel screw. There
is just a nut on the other side. The orifice
plug is of the hex top variety, and the hex
top allows the plug to also function somewhat
like a bolt. And that’s how the burner cup
is held down to the orifice elbow. The vapor
generator loop is actually constructed out
of a three foot long section of 1/8 inch diameter
brass tube, with a slightly smaller diameter
three foot long piece of brass tube that slid
just inside of it. This was done primarily
to give support and strength to the vapor
generator loop, as well as reduce the empty
volume inside. I had previously attempted
to make vapor generator loops out of 1/4 inch
copper and brass tube. And found that the
amount of fuel that could fit inside a 1/4
inch diameter tube was much too much than
you want to be in there. If you are building
a vapor generator, you need to remember that
all of the fuel that can fit in the vapor
generator loop, must then be vaporized. And
if you can fit a lot of fuel in the vapor
generator loop it’s going to be difficult
to vaporize it all. It will likley “shock”
the vapor generator loop, as in very rapidly
suck all of the heat out, and the vapor generator
loop can’t keep up. And suddenly you get liquid
squirting out of your stove. So I found it
was important to minimize the amount of fuel
that could fit in the vapor generator loop
because the vapor generator loop can only
vaporize fuel so fast. Another thing to reduce
the empty volume inside is there is a small
strand of copper wire crammed down inside.
I found that this copper wire crammed inside
helped the performance dramatically. Without
the copper wire it barely worked, it sort
of worked, but I was not happy with the way
it would sometimes squirt liquid out. With
the copper wire crammed in as far as it would
go, which ended up being about, almost one
complete turn around the first loop. The copper
wire dose not go through the entirety of the
vapor generator loop, I was only able to get
it to come to about here. But that helped
the performance of the vapor generator dramatically.
Doubling up the two nesting tubes also helped
provide some support for when tightening down
a compression fitting. Normally with a compression
fitting, there is some type of separate support
piece that is placed inside to prevent the
compression from crushing the tube. Since
no such thing exists for tubing this small,
doubling up the thickness of the tube also
helps provide support for the compression
fitting. The fuel bottle is a stainless steel
vodka bottle. Unfortunately I don’t know if
these are available anymore. I found this
stainless steel bottle to be a much better
choice for a fuel bottle than like an aluminum
water bottle. Obviously it’s much stronger
being stainless steel, corrosion resistance
which is important for reasons I’ll get into
later and the threaded section here is, of
very high quality it’s a nice deep threaded
section. The fuel bottle pressure pump is
built around an aluminum flashlight. This
green plastic piece is actually an adapter
or adapting a sprinkler valve of some kind
to pipe threads. If you have a water bottle
like this, or one of these bottles, they all
have the same thread, and this thread is actually
a common 3/4 pipe thread. So any common 3/4
PVC pipe thread fitting will screw right into
it. I chose the sprinkler valve adapter not
because it was green, and matched the flashlight,
but because the inner diameter fit the outside
bore of this flashlight much better. Along
the side here you can see a short piece of
silicone tubing with a stainless steel nut
just crammed over the outside at the end.
This acts as a weight, or how they are referred
to in gas powered radio controlled aircraft,
this is referred to as a “clunk” This is how
the fuel is collected from fuel tanks in radio
controlled airplanes. And they use this so
even when flying upside down, the gravity
will pull the clunk to wherever the fuel is
because both the fuel, and the weight get
pulled to the same place. Passing through
the threaded plastic piece in a small brass
tube, it ends at a needle valve. This needle
valve was salvaged off of a gas powered radio
controlled model’s engine. This needle valve
originally was for adjusting the fuel air
mixture of these engines. And so quite amusingly,
at least to me, that this needle valve which
I have re purposed, is actually doing precisely
what it was designed to do. The fuel in these
gas powered models is primarily alcohol, with
some natural oils, and nitro methane. So this
needle valve was designed to very precisely
meter the flow of alcohol fuel, which is what
it’s doing here. On the end of the needle
valve I have attached a half section of one
of those compression fittings. Taking a look
at the pump plunger, or pump piston, it’s
really quite simple, it’s just a piece of
1/4 inch stainless steel tube. With this rubber
washer on the end. Behind the rubber washer
I have a stainless steel washer to give it
support, to prevent it from deforming under
pressure. The stainless steel tubing allowed
an easy attachment point as I could just tap
inside with threads and run a screw in. However
this did provide a leak path all the way through
the center of the shaft, so the threads have
to be sealed with something like locktite.
Attached in the same way as the rubber gasket,
I have the top sort of handle or knob. This
particular piece I have has in my junk drawer
for quite some time and it’s some kind of
bicycle component. Either this is the top
cap of the headset, the thing you’d find sort
of in the center of your handlebars. Or a
part of a pivot bearing assembly for a full
suspension bike, I can’t remember which. It’s
not too terribly important what this is, you
can screw anything you want on to the end
if you make one of these, it could just be
a plastic knob. Through the flashlight’s battery
cap, I have drilled a hole that is slightly
larger in diameter than 1/4 inch. The shaft
actually rides on a nylon bushing which I
have pressed into a counter bore that I drilled
into the battery cap. And here you can see
how the stainless steel pump shaft dose not
actually contact the aluminum battery cap.
Which makes for a very nice smooth operation.
And then you come to the one way valve assembly.
Into the end of the aluminum flashlight I
have placed this rubber grommet, and what
seals against the rubber grommet is this high
density polyethylene ball. It’s not like I
had wide variety of materials to choose from
for making this sealing ball, well, I did
not make it but, this sealing ball needs to
be very smooth. So you are looking at plastic,
or metal or glass. High density polyethylene
is a good choice since it’s nice and lightweight
being a plastic, but it’s very chemically
resistant. They make gas cans, and fuel containers
out of high density polyethylene as well as
milk jugs. But it’s very resistant to solvents
and chemical attack. In what used to house
the reflector and lens is where the retention
spring is. This spring is stainless steel,
to resist corrosion. And it is held in place
in the same way the lens of this flashlight
was held in place. You may be thinking to
yourself that I’m missing my other one way
valve, there needs to be two. And you are
right if I pull back in this plunger and let
it go it sucks back in. There dose not seem
to be any way to let air into the pump. This
one way valve lets air exit the pump, and
resists pressure from the fuel tank from escaping
through the pump, but how dose air get into
the pump? And that is accomplished simply
my retracting the plunger all the way back.
And what happens is that rubber gasket gets
pulled out of the flashlight bore, into where
the inner bore enlarges for the threads. So
what that allowed me to do is omit one of
those one way valves there is only one valve.
Fortunately that allowed me too keep this
pump design very simple, because I did not
want to figure out how to make a second opposing
valve, to make this work like a traditional
pump. Originally I was thinking I was going
to have to somehow incorporate the second
valve into the pump shaft. It would draw in
air through the shaft and push it out the
end of the pump. One disadvantage to this
bottle is it was not designed to hold pressure,
and it can hold quite a bit of pressure but
I managed to bulge the bottom of this thing
out so now it won’t sit flat. The reason why
I don’t want to use aluminum as the fuel pressure
bottle material, is that during the development
of this stove I found out that methanol is
corrosive to aluminum. I had left this pump
installed on the fuel bottle for a lengthy
amount of time, with fuel in the bottle. And
when I opened it up there was a white chalky
material all over the exposed aluminum parts
of this flashlight. The damage was not serious
but still it was perplexing until I figured
out that methanol was corroding the aluminum,
or the aluminum was reducing the methanol,
I’m exactly sure what the reaction is but,
you know, bad things are happening. So for
storage the pump is not carried on the fuel
bottle, I know that kind of sucks, that was
my plan to begin with, but in carrying this
stove the pump is carried uninstalled just
like this. And the fuel bottle with a standard
cap on it. If I had used a water bottle that
was made out of aluminum, or even a standard
white gas stove fuel bottle, which are also
typically made of aluminum, that would have
me very concerned because this, not only is
very thin, this is what’s holding the pressure
when the stove is in operation. If the flashlight
body gets a little corroded I don’t feel that
that’s a serious safety concern, but I don’t
want my fuel eating away at the inside of
my pressurized bottle. Another unfortunate
property of methanol I discovered is it is
very good at destroying epoxy resins. Other
people have used epoxy resins like JB weld
and whatnot in building alcohol stoves and
it’s worked but, in my usage and my performance
requirements, the epoxy would degrade at an
unacceptable rate. So not only can I not solder
connections on the vapor generator loop, not
use aluminum for the pressurized bottle, I
also cannot use epoxy on anything that contacts
fuel. All of this epoxy up here dose not contact
fuel because the brass is sealed to the needle
valve before the epoxy is put on. The epoxy
was put on just for strength, the actual liquid
seal is accomplished with locktite. The flashlight
once put into place inside the PVC fitting
here, this gap is sealed with superglue of
all things, I found superglue holds up quite
well to alcohols. But as you know superglue
is not good at filling gaps like epoxy is.
So there could not be a large gap here, hence
why I used this fitting as opposed to just
a standard white PVC fitting which has a larger
inner diameter for some reason. So that’s
this stove in a nutshell, it’s kind of unbelievable
at this point that it took so long to figure
all these thing out, now that I have done
it, it kind of seems obvious but that was
not the case a few years ago. I know that
this is not particularly interesting to everyone,
but I felt it was important I talk about how
it was designed, otherwise it’s just a video
showing off something I made. So I hope you
learned something and I’ll catch you in the next one.

21 Survival Gear Ww1 Pilots Where Can I Buy Online Near Me


21 Facts About Survival Gear Ww1 Pilots Where Can I Buy Online At Dec 23rd

Survival Gear Ww1 Pilots Where Can I Buy Online

3 thoughts to Survival Gear Ww1 Pilots Where Can I Buy Online At 14:41

  1. Nice customisation work and a well thought through product. As you know it's not easy to find alcohol-fuelled stoves of this type on the market. Very useful video.

  2. alcohol under pressure, are you asking to make a forrest fire or what? alcohol must never be used under pressure.